BOLD LIPS
‘It’s all about the bold lip,’ said Max Factor make-up artist Pat McGrath, backstage at Louis Vuitton, where lips came in candy-store assortments, from blue and green to more wearable pink and orange. ‘We wanted the girls to look almost hyper-real, with this very different lip colour offset by perfect skin and a touch of mascara.’ At Temperley, Charlotte Tilbury took inspiration from the Twenties and Thirties, keeping lips matt but bold in either fluoro orange or coral.
GILT TRIP
From gilded brows at Danielle Scutt to flaxen eyeshadow at Marios Schwab, make-up went upmarket with rich tones of antique gold that work well with sun-kissed skin. *At J Mendel, Charlotte Tilbury used MAC to create a Seventies St Tropez bronze, inspired by Lauren Hutton. * ‘Expressive smoky eye glamour,’ is how Pat McGrath describes the look she created for Versace, using Donatella herself as a muse. Blending burnished browns with gold pigment, the effect is sexy and sensual.
Usually only the preserve of pre-teens and post-production pictures, youthful-looking skin was the brief for
FRESH FACES
many of the catwalk shows. *Sissy Spacek inspired Gucci Westman’s barely there make-up at Christopher Kane. ‘I wanted the skin to look really luminous, so I applied Lancôme’s Hydra Intense mask in advance,’ she reveals. ‘Using a thin veil of foundation just where needed ensured the make-up did not detract from their fresh looks.’ *‘Perfect skin was the key,’ says Pat McGrath of the looks she created for Stella McCartney, Calvin Klein, D&G and Pringle. ‘At Stella, it was all about that fresh, cool young girl while Calvin Klein was more about modern minimalism.’
SMOKY EYES
Winter’s smouldering make-up carried through to the new season with gothic chic at Prada and sultry smokiness at Gucci. ‘Everyone’s breaking the rules,’ says Pat McGrath who created many of the brooding looks, turning the tables on the traditional summer pastels and nudes. But for summer, you don’t just have to stick to charcoal. Biba, Busby Berkeley and Jean Harlow were the references for McGrath’s glam rock creations at Anna Sui. Bright blue and purple glitter was applied around the eyes for a dramatic take on the traditional smoky effect – a great way of introducing colour to this classic look.
SIXTIES EYELINER
Look to the vampiest era for eyeliner inspiration this season – a sexy feline flick is the fashion-forward way to a sultry summer look. Use a smouldering charcoal shadow to create a full-on flick similar to the look at DSquared, or make like the Dior models and use an inky black liquid liner for pure precison and perfect come-hither peepers.
HARIBO HUES
Do the bright thing this season with a sugar rush of pigment. You can be as subtle or as saccharine as you dare. From vivid orange eyeshadow at Dries Van Noten to dolly mixture hues at Karl Lagerfeld, the catwalks were awash with sweet treats. The rules are: there are no rules. It’s all about standing out – and harnessing a carefree summer joie de vivre.
GOTHICA
DEFINED BROWSOne of the strongest trends to hit this season’s catwalks, the bold brow was seen everywhere from old-school big-name designers like Gucci, Versace and Valentino to fresher labels like Christopher Kane DSquared. Team with a fresh, innocent-looking complexion, a sultry, smoky eye or candy colours – anything goes, as long as your brows are thick-but-shaped and full of attitude.
BRILLIANT WHITE
The gothic smokiness at shows like Gucci and Prada was contrasted by another top trend: white. Tom Pecheux, who created the block alabaster at Blumarine as well as the sporty white and pale-blue liner at Marni, says white has lit up the catwalks. ‘There’s a pureness and modernity that white make-up brings,’ he explains. But the key is to be subtle, or you could end up looking more frightful than fresh. If a sweep of white shadow is too daring for you, try lining the inside of your eye with white kohl – it created bright, beautiful eyes at Etro.
PALE LIPS
Bold lips were the look du jour when teamed with a clear complexion and soft, pale peepers. But if you favour colour-me-happy eyes or the smouldering smoky look, lips should be softly spoken. The new season pale? Nude but not naked: pouts, like complexions, should be dewy and radiant as seen at Etro, Marios Schwab, Danielle Scutt and Calvin Klein. Dab on a nude lipstick and finish with a smattering of life-giving gloss like Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream.
Credit:www.marieclaire.co.uk
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